During our latest road trip along the coastal Karnataka, we explored as far as Murudeshwar. [here]
Given the considerable distance from Pune and limited time, we opted to embark on the journey from Mangalore, driving in reverse to reach Marawante Beach and conclude our coastal Karnataka odyssey. To add diversity to our adventure, we incorporated Chikmaglur into our itinerary, seamlessly blending jungles, mountains, and heritage sites. This well-rounded itinerary captures the diverse and rich flavors of India in various forms.
Day 1 : Pune – Managlore – road trip to River Tern Lodge
We caught an early flight from Pune to Mangalore and arranged for a cab to transport us directly from the airport to River Tern Lodge. The journey was a scenic 4.5-hour drive, navigating through winding hairpin bends to reach the elevated destination.
Situated near the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, River Tern Lodge is a picturesque property managed by JLR. Following check-in and a delicious lunch, we geared up for a thrilling jeep safari into the wilderness of Bhadra, commencing from the Lakkavali range.
The jungle enveloped us in its lush, dense greenery. Throughout our jeep safari, we encountered numerous herbivores, including bison, deer, and elephants, as well as a variety of birds, wild boar, and mongoose. Our excitement peaked when we discovered fresh tiger pugmarks, prompting us to follow the trail eagerly. However, the thick green canopy of the jungle provided ample cover for the elusive tiger. As the safari approached its conclusion, a thrilling moment unfolded—a leopard briefly appeared on the road ahead of our jeep, gracefully vanishing into the bushes, leaving us with just a fleeting glimpse of its presence.
Day 2 : Road trip from River Tern Lodge – Amrutapuran – Chikmaglur homestay
The day kicked off with a boat safari on the expansive and scenic Bhadra Dam, offering a chance to observe animals gathering for a drink. The dam’s vastness provided a picturesque backdrop as our boat cruised along. We enjoyed sightings of deer herds, numerous birds, elephants, and even otters, making it a truly delightful and memorable experience.
After breakfast we bid adieu to the River Tern Lodge and drove to Amrutapuram. Amrutapuram welcomes visitors to the enchanting Amruteshwar Temple, a masterpiece of Hoysala craftsmanship. Crafted in the 12th century, the temple tells stories through its intricate carvings, bringing mythological scenes and deities to life. With a dedication to Lord Shiva, the temple cradles a sacred linga. In the heart of Amruteshwar Temple , a timeless lamp illuminates the sanctum, symbolising the eternal light of devotion.
We then arrived at Thotadhahalli Homestay in Chikmagalur, a picturesque retreat. The homestay showcased a delightful collection of bonsai plants and boasted traditional architectural charm. The clean and spacious rooms added to the overall appeal, ensuring a delightful stay.
Following a satisfying lunch of Malnad cuisine, we embarked on a visit to Dattatreya Peetha. This unique pilgrimage site holds significance for both Hindus and Muslims. The premises encompass a laterite cave, believed to have provided shelter to Guru Dattatreya. Additionally, the site houses the burial site of a Muslim Sufi saint, revered by followers of both faiths. The shrine is also linked to Baba Budan, a 17th-century Sufi credited with introducing the coffee plant to India by bringing seven raw beans from Yemen in 1670.
Please be aware that the use of mobile phones is prohibited in this area, and accessing the cave involves descending numerous stairs. The exit opens onto the road on the opposite side, and if you’ve left your footwear at the entrance gate, you’ll need to hike back to the starting point.
Subsequently, we drove to Mullyangiri Peak for sunset. As the highest point in Karnataka, a drive takes you to a certain point, and from there, a climb of around 200 steps leads to the summit. The peak offers breathtaking views for a memorable sunset experience.
Day 3 : Road trip to Belur and Halebidu from Chikmaglur homestay
Approximately a 1.5-hour drive from Chikmagalur, Belur is home to the awe-inspiring Chennakeshava Temple and the Hoysaleshwara Temple in Halebidu. Their beauty is indescribable, and I strongly recommend visiting this place. Hiring a guide is a must, as they can transport you back in time, weaving the captivating stories of these magnificent sites.
Allocate at least 4 hours to explore both temples, so plan your day accordingly. We commenced early and returned to our homestay for lunch. Keep in mind that these two towns lack significant development, and finding good restaurants in the vicinity might be a challenge.
Following a midday meal and a brief respite, we explored Hirekolale Lake. Situated in Chikmagalur, Karnataka, this man-made lake is enveloped by the Western Ghats and the Mullayanagiri Hills. Renowned for its scenic beauty, the lake offers captivating views of the landscape during twilight and sunset.
We would have liked to visit Hebbe falls, but its a day long excursion and we were short of time.
I want to highlight the mouthwatering Malnad cuisine we enjoyed at the homestay, featuring dishes like paddu, iddiappam, kori roti, akki roti, and many more whose names I can’t recall.
Day 4 : Road trip from Chikmaglur homestay to Udupi
We commenced our return journey from Chikmagalur to Udupi, passing through Agumbe. If you’re inclined, consider visiting the Kere Basadi, a Jain temple in Varanga along the route. Unfortunately, we weren’t aware of its proximity initially, and by the time we discovered it, it was impractical to backtrack for a visit.
Lunch was at MTR which was just below our hotel. Udupi cuisine is primarily vegetarian with simple and hearty preparations. Many restaurants offer no onions, no garlic cuisines for the Krishna devotees.
We journeyed to Malpe Beach, exploring its shores before purchasing ferry tickets for St. Mary’s Island. Two operators, government and private, are situated at opposite ends of Malpe Beach. Opting for the private ferry on our side, we enjoyed a 20-minute ride to St. Mary’s Island, known for its unique geological formation of columnar rhyolitic lava. Formed during sub-aerial volcanic activity when Madagascar was connected to India, the small island offers limited activities. Unfortunately, swimming is prohibited due to safety concerns. While the island’s natural beauty is notable, there’s a wish for better maintenance and freedom from litter.
We arrived at Malpe just as the sun was setting, relishing the scenic vistas from Malpe Beach. Although we initially considered strolling to the Malpe Sea Walk, it appeared quite distant after a day of exploration. A floating bridge at Malpe Beach was an option, but the cost for a brief walk seemed steep, prompting us to forgo it and head back to our hotel.
Day 5 : Exploring Udupi and around.
We began our day by visiting the Hasta Shilpa Heritage Village museum. It’s an outdoor museum in Manipal created by Vijayanath Shenoy. The museum has old houses showing things from daily life, traditions, and artworks. The team has done a fantastic job preserving our culture. It was a nice and informative experience.
After that, we went to the Shri Krishna Mutt to see Lord Krishna. The Sri Krishna Temple in Udupi is a significant place for people on a religious journey in South India. Many followers come to this town to pray to Lord Krishna. People say the idol of Krishna here is the most beautiful one. In this temple, Lord Krishna is shown as a small boy (Balakrishna). It was a spiritual and humbling experience, and luckily, there weren’t many people, so there were no long lines.
We went back to the hotel for lunch and a break from the hot weather. After that, we went on a drive along the coast to Maravanthe Beach. It was a clean and beautiful beach. Maravanthe is special because it’s between the Arabian Sea on one side and the Souparnika River on the other. Even though the road is wider now with big dividers, you can’t see both the sea and the river together anymore, but it was still amazing.
We planned to visit the Kemmannu Hanging Bridge, but thanks to Google, we found out it’s closed for maintenance. So, we decided to go to Kapu Beach instead. There are other places like Kodi Beach or Delta Point to explore, but due to limited time, we headed straight to Kapu Beach. Kapu, also known as Kaup, is famous for its clean sands, blue waters, and the iconic Kapu Lighthouse. The lighthouse is open to visitors daily from 5:15 PM to 6:30 PM, offering a chance to climb up and enjoy a panoramic view of Kapu Beach. The climb up the lighhouse is very steep and recommended only for the hale and hearty.
Following a visit to the lighthouse and as the sunset approached, we drove along the coastal road from Kapu to Malpe, passing through a quaint fishing village. The sea lay on one side, while a river or backwater bordered the other, with a narrow stretch of road in between, offering a spectacular coastal drive during the sunset. We reached the Malpe Sea Walk just as the sun dipped below the horizon. Positioned on the edge of Malpe Beach, with the Arabian Sea on one side and backwaters on the other, the well-maintained sea walk is a must-visit—we thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
A special shoutout to the scrumptious Udupi cuisine we enjoyed at the hotel, including mouthwatering dishes like benne dosas, gadbad ice creams, various upkaris, avalakkis, coconut rice, neer dosas, mangalore buns, and the coconut milk ganjis that left a lasting impression on my taste buds.
And thus concluded our Udupi excursion.
Day 6 : Back to Mangalore and fly back to Pune.
After breakfast we drove back to Mangalore for our flight back to Pune.
Fact File
Number of days : 6
Pune -Mangalore -Pune – Flight Indigo
Bhadra stay: River Tern Lodge
Chikmaglur Stay : Thotadahalli Homestay
Udupi Stay : Samanvay Boutique Hotel
Internal transfers – taxi – Sushanth – 7019436879
Coastal Karnataka Part 1 – [here]
