Welcome to the enchanting world of Meghalaya, often called the “Abode of Clouds.” Nestled in northeastern India, this stunning region is a treasure trove of breathtaking landscapes and rich cultural heritage. We’ll take you on a journey through two of its most remarkable spots: Cherrapunjee, famous for its lush greenery and mesmerizing waterfalls, and Shillong, the lively capital filled with music and charm. From the unique Living Root Bridges that weave through the forests to the awe-inspiring viewpoints overlooking the Khasi hills, Meghalaya offers experiences that feel both magical and unforgettable. Come along as we explore the wonders of this incredible destination together!
Day 1: Journey from Pune to Cherrapunji
Our trip began with a late-night flight from Pune to Guwahati. Upon arrival, we embarked on a scenic 5.5-hour drive to Cherrapunji. Along the way, we passed the majestic Umiam Lake, a view worth pausing for. Once we reached Cherrapunji, we had the evening to unwind and explore our resort.
Note: In Northeast India, it tends to get dark by 5 p.m. in winter, so plan outdoor activities accordingly. We stayed at the Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort, conveniently located near the start of the trek to the Double Decker Living Root Bridge.
Tips:
- For a delicious breakfast, try Jiva Veg near Shillong—perfect for a stop along the way.
- You need to pass through the traffic of Shillong, so accommodate delays.
Day 2: Exploring Cherrapunji
Our second day was dedicated to sightseeing around Cherrapunji. We began with a visit to Kynrem Falls, followed by a stop at Pillar Rock. Since the Seven Sister Falls had little water during this season, we skipped it and headed to the Mawsmai Caves. These caves, with marked walkways and subtle lighting, offered a fascinating glimpse into Cherrapunji’s underground landscape.
Next, we explored the Garden of Caves, an ecological treasure filled with enchanting caves, cascading waterfalls, and lush scenery. Afterward, we took a break for lunch at Jeeva Grill, located in the scenic Jeeva Resort.
Refreshed, we visited the Nohkalikai Falls, a breathtaking 335-meter plunge—the highest in India and the fourth highest in the world. “Nohkalikai” translates to “Jump of Ka Likai,” a name with an interesting local legend, which you can read about here.
The day wrapped up as we returned to our resort, where we enjoyed panoramic views of the Bangladesh border, along with folk music and dance before dinner.
Tip: The Garden of Caves has about 11 notable spots, so comfortable shoes are a must to fully enjoy this experience!
Day 3: Trek to the Double-Decker Living Root Bridge
Reaching the iconic double-decker root bridge in Nongriat is an adventure that begins with a trek from Tyrna Village. This unique, two-tiered bridge is a natural marvel, formed entirely from the roots of trees, and it reflects the deep relationship between the local community and their environment. Along the way, you’ll cross two suspension bridges with stunning views of crystal-clear blue waters, making the journey itself an exhilarating experience.
Midway to the double-decker bridge, there’s a single-level living root bridge—a beautiful sight and a testament to the skill and patience involved in creating these structures.
For those seeking more, a further hour’s trek leads to Rainbow Falls. However, we opted out of this extension, as the trek to the double-decker bridge alone was challenging, requiring endurance more than skill.
Tips for the Trek:
- Physical Fitness: This trek demands good physical condition due to its length and the 3,500 steps one way.
- Guide: A guide is optional but helpful.
- Supplies: Pack light; refreshments are available at stalls along the way.
- Start Early: Begin the trek by 7:30 AM for the best experience.
More details can be found here: Nongriat Double-Decker Living Root Bridge Trek Tips.
Day 4: Journey to Dawki
Today, we checked out from our hotel in Cherrapunjee and set out for Dawki. Our first stop was the Riwai Single Living Root Bridge, an accessible and impressive natural structure. If you’re unable to trek to the Double-Decker Bridge, this single bridge is definitely worth a visit.
Next, we headed to Mawlynnong, celebrated as the “cleanest village in Asia.” Though we found it somewhat overrated—perhaps due to visiting on a Sunday—the observation towers were closed, and the 200 INR entry fee felt steep for the limited experience.
For lunch, we stopped at Ka Bri War Resort, where the food was decent.
The drive to Dawki was challenging, with narrow roads typically busy with trucks transporting stones from Dawki to Bangladesh. Luckily, being a Sunday, we missed the usual truck traffic that makes this route intense during weekdays.
On the way to Dawki, we drove along the India-Bangladesh border, passing the Tamabil Land Customs Station. The crystal-clear waters of the Umgot River await visitors here. There are two main boating spots: Dawki and Shnongpdeng. Today we went boating on Dawki and enjoyed a one-hour long ride, which included a brief stop on a small island, though 45-minute rides are also available. However, life jackets aren’t provided here, and the water isn’t as clear as at Shnongpdeng. Boats are accessible via vendors on the left bank of the Umgot; those on the right, nearer to Bangladesh, required no stairs, but locals directed us to the other side.
We recommend staying overnight in Dawki as it gets dark early, and the journey is lengthy. We stayed at Dawki View Guesthouse, a comfortable choice in the area with attentive service.
Travel Tips:
- Lodging and dining options are basic, so it’s best to have dinner at your guesthouse.
- The boating area near the Bangladesh border is monitored by the Border Security Force (BSF), where Bangladeshi vendors sell goods right across the border marker.
Day 5: Chasing Waterfalls
We began our day by departing from our guesthouse in Dawki and heading to Shnongpdeng. The Umgot River here is famously clear, and it did not disappoint. Having experienced boating at both Dawki and Shnongpdeng, we found the latter more impressive—stunningly scenic, less crowded, and budget-friendly, with additional activities like cliff jumping and zip lining. The views from a nearby suspension bridge were breathtaking, showing the river’s glassy surface below. Our boat ride, lasting an hour, led us to a secluded waterfall. The clarity of the water gave an illusion of floating above the large rocks beneath.
Next, we travelled to Krang Suri Waterfall, known for its blue-hued waters. Reaching it requires a 30-40 minute trek down stairs, but the sight is worth it. With no lunch spots nearby, we made do with snacks—Lays, Kurkure, and cold drinks.
Our final waterfall stop was Phe Phe Falls. There are two routes: one involves a boat ride, while the other leads directly to the waterfall’s front. We opted for the second route, which includes a 45-minute trek without stairs but remains manageable. The fall’s emerald-blue waters were simply heavenly. Sitting close to the powerful cascades and feeling the cool mist was an unforgettable experience.
We ended the day driving to Shillong, where we checked in at “Tripura Castle”—one of Shillong’s most beautiful properties.
Tips:
- If you plan to swim, carry a change of clothes. Life jackets are available at both waterfalls.
- After completing the strenuous double-decker trek, your legs may need rest before attempting other hikes. But don’t skip Phe Phe!
- Expect traffic delays entering and leaving Shillong.
- If you finish Phe Phe early, consider stopping at Laitlum Canyons en route to Shillong for a beautiful sunset view.
Day 6: Shillong Sightseeing
After breakfast, we set off for Mawphlang Sacred Grove, one of India’s most treasured and well-preserved ancient forests. This lush grove, rich in biodiversity, holds deep cultural significance for the Khasi community. Entry requires a guide, who leads you along the forest’s pathways, sharing insights into its history, cultural importance, and the unique tree species found here.
Next, we visited Elephant Falls, a three-tiered waterfall that involves walking up and down stairs. Although the falls were beautiful, there was relatively little water, and after Phe Phe Falls, this felt less impressive.
We then headed to Shillong Peak, where visitors park near the entrance and take local taxis (ticket purchase required) into the defense area. Be sure to bring an ID card for entry. Unfortunately, a thick fog covered the view of Shillong, leaving us with only a mystical, mist-filled vista—but the area itself was beautiful.
From there, we drove to Police Bazaar, though we considered an alternative stop at the Laitlum Canyons. The foggy weather prompted us to save the canyons for a potentially clearer day. Police Bazaar was bustling, with heavy traffic leading up to it. I found it overly crowded, and the prices weren’t competitive compared to shops near Mawsmai Caves and other spots. A strong beef aroma from one of the lanes led us to leave early.
For lunch, we dined at the Taj Vivanta before heading back to our hotel, Tripura Castle.
Day 7: Laitlum Canyons and Umiam Lake
After breakfast, we embarked on a lengthy drive through Shillong’s bustling traffic to reach the Laitlum Canyons. Unfortunately, similar to our experience at Shillong Peak, we were greeted by dense mist and fog, obscuring the canyon’s stunning views.
We continued our journey to the tranquil Umiam Lake. Although boating was available, we opted to simply enjoy the serene surroundings from the shore. Later, we headed to Ri Kynjai, a breathtaking property in Shillong, where we relaxed and soaked in scenic vistas overlooking Umiam Lake.
Day 8: Return to Guwahati
After breakfast we drove to Guwahati for our return flight.
Since we had a late flight we decided to check the Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary to catch a glimpse of the one horned rhinos. Unfortunately due to heavy rainfalls the night before the Safaris were closed, we got a good glimpse of 10-15 rhinos from the watchtower on the road for free. We then drove to the airport.
Fact File
Number of days: 8 days 7 nights
Mode of transport: Pune-Guwahati-Pune : Indigo Flight
Internal transfers: Innova – Driver: Dhruba – 7002152910
Travel arrangements – Kipepeo – Highly recommended!
| Place | Stay | Nights |
| Cherrapunjee | Cherrapunjee Holiday Resort | 3 |
| Dawki | Dawki View Guest House | 1 |
| Shillong | Tripura Castle | 2 |
| Shillong | Ri Kynjai | 1 |
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